Highs, leis, and alohas: Hawaii surf spots
Any time you start feeling board, remember you can always wave goodbye to the everyday and head to Hawaii.
It's a barrel of fun!
Whether you're the Tony Hawk of the waves or just finding your feet, the world's surf mecca has the perfect beach for you. Finding it may take time, but read on and you'll have an inkling of where to get started.
While each island of Hawaii has great surfing, visitors mostly stick to Oahu (where Honolulu is), so this article will focus on spots there.
Playing it smart in Hawaii
If you're new to the Aloha State, know that Hawaii is one of the world's most dangerous surfing hotspots. Luckily, the safety seminar is simple and concise:
- When surfing a new location, take it easy until you're familiar with it.
- Never surf alone and keep to known surfing spots.
- Always check the surf forecast from a source like the NWS.
Basically, defy the dictionary and put humility before hubris. Hawaii's reefs, shallow waters, and waves that change on a whim can catch even experienced surfers off-guard. And though it sounds romantic, becoming one with the ocean doesn't feel so great in practice.
Only paddle out if swells are dropping in size, not rising. Waves here can grow very quickly.
Oahu at a glance
Oahu is big enough to have several distinct regions, so you'll have to explore to find the waves for you. Here's a quick overview:
- The South Shore is fairly crowded, but also much friendlier to casual surfers and kooks (beginners).
- The North Shore has some of the most challenging and stunning surf in the world. Leave this to the pros, but watching is fun.
- The east and west of the island have a huge variety of surf spots, perfect for improving as an intermediate surfer. Although they're less crowded, they're frequented by more territorial regulars, so make sure you're respectful and are surfing at your level.
It's rare for people to share secret spots, but before you go searching, keep in mind that popular spots draw crowds for a reason – they're usually the best.
Beginner
Waikiki
Residents of Hawaii are as laid-back and welcoming as you'd imagine, but when it comes to surfing and noobs, these beaches turn into an Xbox Live lobby. So if you're here to learn, Waikiki's your spawn point and you'd better stick to it until you "git gud." At least Honolulu's right behind you to provide the best afterparty to all those party waves.
- Long, rolling, calf-high waves, perfect for complete beginners.
- Channel for paddling out, so don't worry about breaks and surfers.
- Full of surf schools and instructors.
- Many rentals.
- Great for longboarding.
Waikiki is THE spot for first-timers. The only spot, actually. Hawaii ain't a joke!
Where to find it: Right in Honolulu (Google Maps).
Diamond Head
Once you've found your footing on the board, you're ready to embark on your journey around the island. For many beginners, Diamond Head is a step up from Waikiki and the first taste of the postcard Hawaii experience: catching waves at the foot of a volcano.
- Perfect for transitioning from beginner to intermediate.
- Calm and easy waves early in the mornings.
- Larger and faster waves in the afternoon.
- A-Frame waves perfect for longboarding and practicing left and right breaks.
- Relatively easy to find a practice spot away from big lineups.
Where to find it: Right in Honolulu (Google Maps).
White Plains Beach
Beginners coming to the island often find themselves in a dilemma. Do you face physical pain from the steep waves of North Oahu, or emotional pain from the steep prices of Honolulu? Luckily, for those who have a grasp on the basics, there's a way out: a west-shore beach that's friendly to learners.
- Long beachfront without dense crowds.
- Consistent waves – great for building confidence.
- Not too shallow, sand floor is relatively safe.
Where to find it: About an hour west of Honolulu (Google Maps).
Intermediate
Pua'ena Point
By the time your foundation is as solid as the reefs of the North Shore, you'll probably be eager to head up and see them for yourself. However, it's still not wise to launch into the deep end. North Oahu packs a hard punch, but Pua'ena is the softest introduction you'll find.
- Has a protected cove area without rip – great for trial-and-error practice.
- Small days are great for getting used to slab waves.
- Paddle out further for bigger waves.
Where to find it: About an hour northwest of Honolulu (Google Maps).
Chuns Reef Beach
What's there to say about Chuns? It's a solid spot on the west side of the island, and if you ever want a beach named after yourself, all it takes is simply owning a whole flippin' seaside resort. Who knew?
- Popular with longboarders.
- Strong current on big days.
- Left and right breaks.
- Left line-up is less crowded, but with much shallower reef.
Where to find it: About an hour northwest of Honolulu (Google Maps).
Turtle Bay
Two main perks here: the surf is safer and more protected than elsewhere along the North Shore, and the surfers are less territorial, on account of the nearby resort. Good waves and a bar right next to them? Today's your lucky day!
- Friendlier to visitors compared with other spots of this level.
- Often a mix of skill levels and board styles.
- Surfable even when North Shore conditions are too rough (but only if you're good).
Where to find it: About 60-90 minutes north of Honolulu (Google Maps).
Makaha
Want a litmus test of whether you're ready for the big-kid beaches? Head to this west-shore beach and watch the locals' reactions. If they don't try to chase you off – congratulations! You've made it as a surfer. But even if you're that good, keep your guard up: the currents here have more power than you'd expect.
- Reputation for territorial regulars; be on top of your etiquette.
- Four main peaks and different sections.
- Different tides and swell directions keep things interesting for surfers.
- Attracts a mix of board types.
Where to find it: About an hour northwest of Honolulu (Google Maps).
Advanced
Ehukai
If you're ready to take on these waves, then you already know everything there is to know about them. Everyone else best sit this one out. Luckily, there are many places to do so, catering to the many spectators who gather to watch the best of the best take on the iconic Banzai Pipeline.
No, seriously, if you're looking here for a description to learn more, these waves aren't for you.
Where to find it: About an hour north of Honolulu (Google Maps).
Rocky Point
It might sound like a command from a certain boxing trainer, but as far as names go, this one's pretty spot-on. It's a point, and there are rocks. Unlike sand, rocks leave boo boos, so be careful, and bring band-aids.
- Strong current and reef break.
- Wave faces are great for big shredding turns.
- Consistent, breaks to both left and right.
Where to find it: About an hour north of Honolulu (Google Maps).
Backyards and Sunset Point
"Not in my backyard!" doesn't apply here. If you're good enough to join the pros surfing the Seven-Mile Miracle, you'll likely start at this beach's western end. This water moves far and fast, and the reef below isn't great for your skin (or limbs), so be ready to put all your experience to good use.
- Shallow reef floor.
- Big, fast, barrelling wave.
- Strong currents.
Where to find it: About an hour north of Honolulu (Google Maps).
Excited and ready for the long journey out of the contiguous 48? Make it easier by finding the best price on flight tickets, or check out other cool surf spots that might be closer to home.
